I try to promote and use Somerset products in all we do here at the Thatched Cottage and what is more associated with Somerset than cider? Cider and perry have been important features of rural life in Somerset for centuries, They are two sides of the same coin, one made from apples and the other from pears.
With the changing fortunes of various producers Shepton Mallet now finds itself host to some of the major brands. At the same time traditional scrumpy, rough farmhouse cider, which was a fearsome drink to the uninitiated, has been developed into a sophisticated tipple that meets modern taste requirements.
Demand for cider nationally has risen dramatically in recent months, fueled in part by the superb efforts of the Magners marketing team. from which all ciders and perries are benefiting. Another factor is the general demand for local produce, preferably organic and canny local cider makers are perfectly placed to benefit from this. One such producer was and is ahead of this wave.
brothers
The Showering family have played a major part in Shepton's economy, developing perry into Babycham at the local factory. Babycham became a major national success story, attracting the attention of large multi national companies and was eventually sold to Cadbury Schweppes. Babycham is still made, but in small quantities and the present owners, Constellation Brands Europe, have seen fit to remove Bambi, the iconic brand image, from the roof of the factory.
Four brothers from the family decided to retain an interest in drinks manufacture, perry in particular and formed Brothers to do so. From this has come Brothers Original, then Pear Cider, first trialed at the Glastonbury Festival and now generally available. This was followed by strawberry cider and now lemonade They all have clean, dry tastes with individually distinctive aromas and, surprisingly, are equally enjoyed by men and women, but not often over ice! Judged by first hand observation I think they will only grow in popularity.
blackthorne
Blackthorne, a dry cider first produced in the Taunton area was eventually the death of Taunton Cider Company. Like Baby Cham, its success propelled it onto the national stage and attracted the attention of larger companies, eventually being sold to Mathew Clark, a drinks wholesaler. Of course Blackthorne was not the Cider Company's only product. They made a range of other very drinkable ciders, including vintages for most special occasions over the past century, which locals considered far superior to Blackthorne. As is the way, rationalization followed, the Taunton factory was closed, products discontinued and generations of expertise was dispersed and lost. Production of Blackthorne was switched to Shepton Mallet but no longer made in the traditional manner, where it clings to a precarious existence, its owners intent on distancing themselves from its roots whilst trumpeting the virtues of ciders from other counties, no doubt worthy in their own right.
Mathew Clark have also acquired Addlestones and here at least their Premium Cloudy cider offers Magners serious competition. As its name implies it is much closer to traditional cider with good acidity and flavour that is quite distinct from the clear, homogenized varieties.
somerset cider brandy
Another man with very definite views as to the nature of cider and what can be achieved with it is Julian Temperly. His home, Burrow Hill Farm, has produced cider for over 150 years and his vision was to distill brandy using his own cider apples. The French call it Calvados and predictably they led the opposition to his plan. Julian single handedly took on both the British and EU authorities in his quest for a licence to distill and eventually was successful, becoming the first brandy distiller in England since Henry V111's reign. This year we have the first 15 Year Old, Somerset Alchemy, on sale, alongside 10 and 3 year old, and magnificent it is.
Not content with this historic achievement he also produces Kingston Black, a bottle fermented sparkling cider (a method that probably predates champagne) that stands comparison with many champagnes, Somerset Pomona, a fortified aperitif perfect with cheese or desserts and traditional ciders in flagons, all from apples in his own orchards and made on his farm. We stock them all. Julian's views on the use of ice in cider are unprintable. Let's hope these wonderful products don't go the way of Baycham and Blackthorne Cider!




